Sunday, September 13, 2009

May 5-7: Grand Canyon

Buzz and Alice rode with us from Phoenix to the Grand Canyon. Packing was tight, but it was comfortable and Buzz played his I-Pod collection of country tunes all the way so we were definitely in in a country frame of mind by the time we got to Flagstaff and stopped for lunch at the Beaver St. Brewery. The burgers were great!

A bit cramped in the back seat.
We arrived at the south rim early in the afternoon, checked in at the Yavapai Lodge and had a look around. The mule deer were quite tame and well adjusted to life in the Park.

The first views of the canyon were spectacular.
We were happy to be there, and looking forward to beginning our hike the following day.

There are many stunning viewpoints along the south rim.

We were excited to be celebrating our 36th anniversary with dinner at the historic El Tovar dining room in the company of Vicki and John from Minnesota who would be joining us on the hike. Buzz and Alice were a bit concerned about the challenge awaiting us over the next 2 days, but after a glass or two of wine they loosened up to the prospect!

The salads were nice, and the setting was beautiful.

Next morning, we were refreshed and eager to start out as we gathered at the South Kaibab trailhead. Due to some initial confusion, we were a bit later starting out than we had intended.
We pitched over the edge and were on our way! The trail is one of the few in the park that follows a ridge rather than side canyons.
It is steep, however, dropping close to 5,000 feet in 6.3 miles.

Peg was enthusiastic at the start, and remained determined in spite of the increasing heat.
Vicki and John enjoyed our first brief rest stop.
The vistas were beautiful, and changed at every switchback.



We took a longer break at Cedar Ridge, which is about a mile and a half from the trailhead. Buzz had had the foresight to prepare beautiful, thick ham & cheese sandwiches on rye for all of us. They were really tasty!
Buzz made friends with Alvin, who seemed to be looking for food and was not shy about begging, or even digging into backpacks, given the chance.

John found a great perch to relax and put his feet up.
Vicki contemplated nature while playing a soothing tune on her flute.
We saddled up and headed down the trail.
Looking back towards the rim, it was a bit surprising to see how far we had descended.
The Grand Canyon hike is a trip back in time, offering views of up to six million years of erosion through four geologic eras.
Peg, following Alice down the trail.
Switchbacks in the distance.

We were a bit startled to see this bright flower alone in the dust!

We crossed a plateau
And then the trail steepened as we saw the switchbacks ahead and the river far below.

Great views at every turn.
This was more or less the halfway point, and it was getting really hot!

The rare shady spots were looking inviting.
Much of the trail was constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 30's.


More improbable flowers, and cactus.
Amid the barren rock formations.
Tell me- tell me, I implore! Quoth the Raven, "Nevermore."
First glimpse of the Silver bridge on the Colorado river, leading to the Bright Angel Trail on the south side where we would begin our ascent the following day.
And then the black bridge came in to view, on the South Kaibab.
But the sight of the switchbacks showed that it was not quite as close as we thought!
A final break in the shade before our final push to the river.
And then we were there!
Peg crossing the river.
Rafters on a break.
It was still about half a mile up Canyon Creek to the Phantom Ranch.
Four in the afternoon, and shadows were already darkening the recesses of the canyon.

We had the two cabins shown here in the center.

Air conditioned, and very comfortable after a long hike.
A serene evening at Phantom Ranch
Happy campers enjoying a hearty meal, all-you-can-eat, served family style.
The beef stew was a winner!
Don't stop till you get enough.
Fresh salad.
We started our ascent at 6 am, as the mules rested in the paddock,
awaiting the long trek back to the rim.

We crossed the Colorado, heading for Bright Angel Trail.

It was peaceful and cool at the start.
Exotic plant material (for us).
And beautiful patterns of light and shadow on the canyon walls.
We wound our way up the trail through side canyons.
The trail leveled out as we approached Indian Garden, where there is a campground, a rest area, and intersecting trails.
A blue lizard greeted us, in search of insects
A mule train passed by. The thermometer on the left registered 100 degrees at 8 am.
Mules resting in the corral.
This is the turnaround spot for some of the mule excursions from the rim.
We turned back to see that we had covered quite a distance.
And moved to the side of the trail to let the mules pass by.
And finally, we gathered at the rim for a farewell photo. Mission accomplished!
Peg and Kevin were off to Winslow, while our companions returned to Phoenix.

Sunday, July 26, 2009

By the time we get to Phoenix.... May 3

This is the first roadside service area
when entering AZ from NM on I-10.
The sharp blue sky was especially enticing.
We arrived in Phoenix and stopped first at the REI store in Tempe http://www.rei.com/ to take advantage of their annual sale and pick up some useful hiking paraphernalia.
From there we continued on to Fountain Hills to meet Buzz and Alice and get ready for our Grand Canyon adventure.

Alice was at the door to greet us when we arrived

The balcony provides a great view over the valley and back towards Phoenix to the southwest.

This is saguaro country

Buzz prepared a delicious dinner featuring pan fried fillets from his fishing trip to Naples. We were impressed with his inventive apparatus for disabling the smoke detector!

Nightfall in Scottsdale


One little, two little, three little Indians...

four little, five little, six little Indians....
(waiting for their wives at the jewelry store)
Scottsdale sculpture gallery


Quatrz of the Amethyst variety at the Arizona Mining and Minerals Museum
Quartz (l), Malachite (r)

Assorted mineral specimens

Calcite from Brazil

This is a view skyward in the rotunda of the Arizona Capitol Museumhttp://www.lib.az.us/museum/

Rare 19th C. Navaho baskets

The colorful first governor of Arizona was George W. P. Hunt, shown here in a recreation of his office. He served seven terms during his career, earning him the sobriquet "George VII."
His hometown newspaper, the Globe Silver Bell, supported his opponent and frequently ran such comments as the following: "Two circuses are in town today, Ringling Brothers and G.W.P. Hunt. Both are complete with side shows."

Bola Tie & Turquoise

The Arizona Capitol Museum is home to the silver service that was donated to the USS Arizona by the citizens of this state in 1919. This service is comprised of 59 distinct pieces on display at the Museum. Sadly, the USS Arizona now lies at the bottom of Pearl Harbor, a memorial to the servicemen who perished aboard her during the war.

The "Great Seal of the State of Arizona" in the central hall of the Capitol with the Latin motto Ditat Deus, God Enriches. (One can hope!)

Landing in Las Cruces: April 30

From Austin to Las Cruces, we struck out west on 290 through Texas Hill Country and passed the LBJ Ranch along the banks of the Pedernales River. Continuing on I-10 through west Texas and the city of El Paso (just across the Rio Grande from the drug-war riddled Mexican town of Juarez), we ended up in Las Cruces, NM. late in the afternoon.

Peg was impressed with the wrought iron entry door to our hotel.

The historic village of Old Mesilla is close by, and we went there for a couple of meals, and for the Cinco de Mayo Fiesta. Many of the Fiesta dancers were outfitted in striking costumes.


Mesilla was a lively social center in the 1880s. People came from as far as Chihuahua and Tucson to attend bailes (dances), bullfights, cockfights and theatrical presentations. The town attracted more than its share of violence, and differences were often settled in the streets with guns. Outlaws such as Dutch Hubert, Nicolas Provencio and Billy the Kid frequented many of the bars and dances in town.

In April of 1881, Billy the Kid was tried at the Mesilla courthouse and sentenced to hang. He soon escaped from jail, but was shot to death by Lincoln County Sheriff Pat Garrett on July 14.

More Cinco de Mayo dancers

Typical fiesta fare.
These lovely girls were eager to be photographed!

Exquisite costume details
Mariachi con gusto!

The famous chile rellenos at Chopes in La Mesa
It is a pleasant drive from Mesilla to La Mesa past farms and Pecan plantations, most of them owned by Stahmanns http://www.stahmanns.com/
Our primary purpose in visiting La Mesa was to visit Chopes, a quasi-ramshackle diner serving up incredible food. We both opted for the chile rellenos. They were delicious.
The Chopes bar and dining room are in separate buildings. Tip: If you prefer smoke free and quiet dining, try the dining room, shown in the background at the far side of the parking lot.

Diners enjoy cold beer with hot chile, in large or small bottles.

Colorful ristras at the Las Cruces market
Las Cruces Colonnade
Lively quartet at the market

A monk plays solo

Hotel breakfast area

Nachos at Si Senor, with four dips!
http://www.sisenorpdx.com/index.shtml

Just north of Las Cruces is Hatch, NM, home to the world's best chile peppers. We stopped here at the Chile Fanatic to stock up on dried chiles, ristras, and salsa. Their pecans were good too!
http://www.hatchchilefest.com/
Ristras as wreaths and crosses


View towards Alamogordo from Cloudcroft.
School kids sledding at White Sands National Monument

Peg in the dunes

The visitors center
Center & Museum
Looking down the White Sands missile range
http://www.wsmr.army.mil/wsmr.asp

San Augustin pass in the Organ Mountains, east of Las Cruces

Authentic Mexican dinner at El Comedor in Mesilla with the "Christmas" treatment
(red AND green chile)
Buck Wagon in Old Mesilla