We arrived in BsAs late Saturday afternoon, changed funds at Banco de la Nacion, took a remise car with driver into town, and got settled in. Then we walked around, a bit zombie-like, after about 20 hours of flying: New Brunswick-Toronto-Santiago-EZE. We like the barrio where our apartment is located (Palermo Botanico). It is a quiet, green neighborhood near lots of parks and gardens. We had dinner at the very nice Bella Italia Cafe and Bar on LaFinur and followed up the meal with delicious helado at the "new" Jauja at the corner of Cervino and Lafinur. They are the "new kid in town" having originated in Bariloche and the staff are eager to serve and to explain the different flavors to the uninitiated.
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| Obelisco, Plaza de la Republica |
Sunday, we walked a bit in the morning and then spent the afternoon with Norma, a Cicerone (volunteer guide for visitors)--she was wonderful and gave us a great overview of the important landmarks in the city---we drove around in her car. We walked a bit in Recoleta with her and then had a bite at La Biela---overpriced, okay food, but a real traditional, old school place in the tony Recoleta barrio.
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| Peg and Norma at La Biela |
Sunday night we were invited by our new friends, Jill and Ken from Collingwood ON, to go to Puerto Madero where there is a restaurant featuring terrific opera singers, al fresco, on Sunday evenings. You get a table and a drink for 45 pesos. It was great. Joining us were Gonza, a U of Buenos Aires medical student and a few of his young friends.
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| Jill and Peg enjoying opera al fresco |
Later in the evening we all went to the true hotspot for street food, where the yellow parrillas wagons line up along the Costanera Sur, located on the far side of Puerto Madero Este, running its entire length along the canal and ecological reserve. We enjoyed a late night snack of choripan, bandiola al limon and beverages, then said our goodnights and all ventured home by taxi. Second day here, and we just broke our vow that there would be no late nights for us!
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| A big night at the grill |
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| Jill and Gonza placing our order |
Monday morning, I had some dental work done. Peg was mortified that I would even consider such a thing, but Dr. Pelcman has a very solid reputation so I was not concerned about the care, and the cost is about 1/3, compared to at home so you could make the case that the savings in dental care paid for the trip!.
On the way home we got some groceries at the Disco and then had lunch at the Museo Evita Cafe. Very nice.
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| Evita jamon y queso crepe |
It started to rain in the afternoon, so we returned to Bella Italia, since it so close by and we again had a nice dinner, with that neighbor hood bistro feel. On the way home we stopped at Tatu Empanadas Salteñas and picked up a mixed dozen of empanadas (carne picante, jamon y queso, tomate queso y albahca, and pollo picante) to have on hand in the fridge for lunches and snacks. They specialize in the Salta regional dishes and they are situated directly across the street from our place.
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| A Dozen Tatu Empanadas Salteñas |
Today we wandered around in the Jardin Botanico Carlos Thays designed by the French Argentine landscape architect. Thays was a French immigrant (1849-1934) who designed many of the famous parks and plazas throughout the city and in other areas of the country too. The botanical gardens is just a wonderful, well cared for space, and most of the specimens are identified.
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| Feral Cats abound at Jardin Botanico |
We headed west from the gardens into Palermo Soho, one of the developing barrios with lots of shops and great restaurants. We carried on into Villa Crespo to Sarkis, an Armenian restaurant that serves wonderful food. We had some of their special dishes, as recommended by the waiter and various reviewers. We started with kepke and stuffed zuchinni and then on to cheese bourek and a kafta brochette. We finished with probably the best baklava we've ever had, topped with vanilla ice cream and accompanied by thick, rich cafe orientale.
Fortunately, we had a long walk home!
